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Stained glass patterns for beginners

A good first stained glass pattern has few pieces, each big enough to hold, cut along straight lines and gentle curves: no deep inside curves, no sharp points, no slivers. A small suncatcher in copper foil of a dozen pieces or fewer makes a good first project. The free patterns below are just that, and each passes every check the Studio runs, at its own size.

  1. 1Few pieces, each one you can hold
  2. 2Lines glass is happy to break along
  3. 3Copper foil for a first panel
  4. 4Small, with nothing to frame
  5. 5Glass that is kind to cut
  6. 6Free patterns to start with
  7. 7Check any pattern before you cut

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Nine free suncatcher patterns from the VETRATA pattern shop, glazed on paper: a heart, a maple leaf, a five-point star, an ivy leaf, a ladybird, a pear, a crescent moon, a trefoil and a candle.
Nine free suncatchers from the pattern shop, none of more than eight pieces.

01

Few pieces, each one you can hold

Every piece is scored, broken out, ground to fit, wrapped and soldered. The fewer there are, the more care each one gets, and the sooner the first panel is finished. Start with twenty pieces or fewer.

Not too small, either. A piece narrower than 8 mm at any point is hard to hold to the grinder and easy to break, and a long thin one, more than about 8 times as long as it is wide, snaps as it is cut.

02

Lines glass is happy to break along

Glass breaks along a score, and a score runs best in a straight line or a gentle curve from one edge of the glass to the other. Look at every piece of a pattern and ask how it would come out of a sheet.

  • Straight lines are the easiest cuts of all, then gentle outside curves, the edge of a circle seen from outside.
  • Inside curves are harder: a curve cut into a piece is broken out bit by bit, and one deeper than 40% of its opening runs the break into the piece.
  • Sharp points chip: a corner sharper than 15° is hard to cut and harder to grind.
  • Big pieces are hard to score and break in one: the Studio warns at 300 mm across in copper foil.

Try it here: draw leads across the panel and read what the Studio's checks say about each piece.

The Line tool drawing leads across a blank panel in VETRATA Studio.

  1. Cut the field until the warning goes
  2. Make a sliver and read what it says
The Studio's own engine: every lead you draw cuts the pieces it crosses, and the checks run as you draw.

03

Copper foil for a first panel

Copper foil is the easier of the two techniques to learn. Each piece is wrapped in copper tape and the seams are soldered, so pieces too small or too curved for lead came are no trouble. Suncatchers, lamps and small panels are made this way.

A foil seam shows about 3.2 mm of solder, so a small panel keeps its detail.

Copper foil

glassthe line on the pattern3.2 mm seam0.8 mm gap1.2 mm foil lip
Copper foil cut through: the foil's lip on both faces and the solder over it, a 3.2 mm seam.

04

Small, with nothing to frame

Keep the first one small, 15 to 30 cm across. It fits on a small work board, needs little glass and is quick to solder.

A suncatcher needs no frame: its outside edge is foiled and soldered like every seam, and a wire loop soldered to the top hangs it in a window.

05

Glass that is kind to cut

Start with smooth glass of an even thickness: a score on a smooth face runs true. Score textured glass on its smooth side.

Glass that runs one way, streaky or reeded, has every piece cut the same way round, and that takes more of the sheet. Save it for the second panel.

07

Check any pattern before you cut

A pattern from a book or a shop can be checked the same way. Draw it in the Studio, or import it as SVG or DXF, and Can I cut this? lists every piece the glass won't take at the size you will build it, with a fix beside each finding: a lead across a deep curve, a split for a piece too big.

A pattern that passes at one size can fail at another. Shrink it and its narrow pieces get narrower, so check it again at the size you print.